Learn about common Isuzu MU-X problems and Isuzu D-MAX problems, along with practical solutions to keep your 4×4 running smoothly.
The Isuzu D-MAX and MU-X have earned a strong reputation for touring and off-roading. The D-MAX’s versatility, with options like crew-cab, dual-cab, and styleside or cab-chassis, makes it ideal for a range of tasks. Meanwhile, the MU-X’s seven-seat layout appeals to adventurous families. Both vehicles feature a genuine four-wheel-drive system.
Despite their reliability, the Isuzu MU-X and D-MAX have some common problems worth noting. From suspension differences—leaf-sprung rear axle for the D-MAX and coil-sprung for the MU-X—to transmission options, this article dives into the key Isuzu MU-X problems and Isuzu D-MAX problems you should know about.
Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X problem #1: A bit light on
If you’re a tradesman, you’re probably sitting behind the wheel of an Isuzu D-MAX rather than an MU-X, and if you use it for work, you’ve most likely noticed that the standard suspension is a bit of an underdone problem for carting around big loads. Noticing too much rear sag resulting in iffy steering and a loss of braking performance? This could likely be why.
Solution:
Upgrading the GVM can be done via new suspension with kits that are already certified and will do the job. As long as you purchase a reputable brand and have it properly installed you’ll be good to go. These precautions exist because quality varies enormously in the online-purchasing world we live in now. You’ll be replacing springs and shocks and might also need to change out bump stops and check for any duff bushes and shackles while you’re in there.
Mods:
If you’re keen on a mod to fix your Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X suspension problems, you could add a two-inch lift. This will give your vehicle even greater load carrying ability and it’ll make it more fun and way more capable off-road. Don’t be greedy and go more than two inches unless you want your insurance company to ghost you in the event of the unthinkable happening.
Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X problem #2: Hot tranny
As Ke$ha once said, “hot and dangerous!” The Isuzu MU-X and D-MAX’s five-speed auto can be a problem when using the vehicle hard. By hard, we’re talking towing a 2.5-tonne caravan on a long, windy, uphill road. The heat is due to the engine working its hardest and the torque converter also earning its living, allowing for some slip to keep the engine in its power zone in each gear.
The problem we are faced with here is that converter slip is a major contributor to the production of heat and heat has to go somewhere. In most cases, that somewhere is the factory trans cooler which is part of the radiator’s bottom tank. This results in making the radiator coolant hotter which makes the engine run hotter. Suddenly you’re faced with a vicious circle of heat-creep. What does automatic transmission hate? Well what would you know, it’s heat.
Solution:
Begin by getting an idea of what’s happening to your trans temps before you go rushing out to buy more hardware. A ScanTool or ScanGauge interfaces with the vehicle’s on-board diagnostics which can tell you lots of useful things the standard dashboard doesn’t. For example, real-time trans temperature.
Once you’ve gathered that information, the next step is a fix. Or maybe not; if the temps don’t get to a point where you should be worried. Although the Isuzu MU-X and D-MAX do have a transmission-temperature warning light that will illuminate, like most of these problem warning lights, the damage is often done by the time the light pops on. The trade suggests that the warning light only comes on at a temperature of 134-degrees. This is far beyond what we’d be keen on seeing. You want to hope for under, and lower is better again. Auto trans experts will tell you, there’s no such thing as over-cooling an auto.
Another solution to this common Isuzu MU-X & D-MAX problem is to drive around it. Don’t let the vehicle select gear that’s too high on a twisting uphill road. Pull it back a gear manually, which will allow the engine to get into its comfort zone. The torque converter will slip less, and therefore create less heat.
In the longer term, you want to keep your eye on things. Check the colour and smell of your trans fluid. Black and smelling of burnt toast means it’s most likely cooked and needs replacing. When you do have the tranny serviced, ask for the old filter. You can then take it home and cut it open to check for any black, solid deposits that could be burned bands or clutch material.
Mods:
If you want to make a modification, you could fit an extra transmission cooler to fix this Isuzu MU-X & D-MAX problem. If you go down this road, make sure you buy a quality one and have it installed by somebody who knows what they’re doing. It should supplement, not replace, the standard cooler. It should also be fitted in series (not parallel) with the factory unit. This ensures that the vehicle’s thermostat can get everything up to operating temperature without too much delay.
Isuzu claims that the D-MAX and MU-X are already fitted with a heavy-duty trans cooler; however, tranny experts disagree. Make sure when you do find a fitter that they warranty their work. An aftermarket cooler that failed would give Isuzu the option of walking away from any warranty claim.
Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X problem #3: Creaky joints
Unfortunately, a problem for the Isuzu D-MAX and MU-X is a very short front CV joint life, much like other off-roaders with independent front suspension. The wear and tear associated with big wheel articulation and big tyres can be a huge factor. Don’t forget the attack of water when you’re off-roading, plus whatever else splatters up can contaminate the joint. Even tight twists and turns in underground car parks can use up a CV joint in record time.
Solution:
To avoid chewing out front CVs at an alarming rate, you can never go off-road. Just kidding. Although it would ease the situation, you’d also need to slap a ‘Nigel-No-Fun’ sticker on your bumper bar. We know you didn’t buy one of these to miss out on off-road fun. Instead, consider replacing these as with any other service item. If you want to keep a closer eye on them to see how they’re going, listen for a click-clack sound. This is a typical tell-tale sign of a worn CV that you’ll notice most when you’re chucking a uey (U-turn). Naturally, it’s all over when the fat lady sings. When you hear that noise, the joint is already shot.
Another tip for this Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X problem is to make sure the rubber boots are kept in good shape. Even the tiniest of splits in the rubber is going to be bad news for the CV within.
Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X problem #4: EGR valves and internal grots
As a modern turbo-diesel, the Isuzu MU-X/D-MAX’s three-litre engine is vulnerable to problems surrounding its Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system. Keeping in line with emissions controls mandated by global governments, an EGR valve allows the Isuzu engine to consume a percentage of its own exhaust gas. This is a means of cleaning up tailpipe emissions by burning that portion of its exhaust twice over. The EGR valve is also involved in ensuring that crankcase fumes get burned in the engine and don’t escape into the atmosphere. Those exhaust gasses contain soot and when they combine in the EGR valve with oily fumes from the crankcase, the oil and soot can quickly turn to a black, sticky gunge. This can then go on to clog up the EGR valve and coat the inlet manifold, reducing its effective diameter.
This isn’t a unique problem to the Isuzu D-MAX or MU-X, as any owner of a modern turbo-diesel should not ignore this concern. When it continues on unchecked, the layers of oily soot inevitably build up and the EGR valve becomes jammed open. What does this result in? Well, the vehicle’s emission-controls don’t work and it becomes deemed unroadworthy. Look out for your check-engine light popping up on the dash and take notice of poor starting, a loss of power, reduced fuel economy, and rough idling.
A solution we would not recommend is disabling (blocking off) the EGR valve to prevent it working at all. Obviously this is highly illegal and you’re looking at huge fines for tampering with an emissions-control system. Aside from your bank account copping it for the fine, your vehicle will be deemed technically unroadworthy. Basically, just don’t do this.
Solution:
A solution we do recommend for this Isuzu MU-X/D-Max problem is an aerosol spray that is introduced to the air intake while the engine is running and cleans the soot deposits in real-time. If you can do this at every service you’ll be effectively preventing the EGR and intake manifold clogging up. Although this spray service is costly, when you weigh up the numbers it’s much cheaper than the alternative of disassembling the EGR valve and the inlet manifold and plumbing and manually cleaning the grot out.
If you’re a ‘try your luck’ kind of person, I hate to break it to you, but even with this hand-cleaning route, you’ve got no guarantee that the EGR valve will be resurrected. Once the valve is stuck open, you’re looking at a $1500 punishment to replace it. Guess that $100 aerosol spray is looking a lot more desirable now.
Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X problem #5: DPF blues
The Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) is likely the way forward when it comes to cleaning up the emissions of diesel engines. However, the DPF has a problem that affects not only Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X’s, but most vehicles that use the technology.
First, consider the front-bar names for a DPF: soot filter or soot trap. The DPF’s role is to trap some of the harmful emissions, store them and then burn them off later. It can’t burn them off and turn them to ash in real-time as most of the time, the DPF isn’t running at a high enough temperature to do so.
This is the second part of the problem.
Until the engine and exhaust system becomes hot enough for the burn-off to occur, it simply won’t. If all you do is travel through the suburbs in your D-MAX/MU-X, the DPF will reward you with soot. the warning light will appear on the dashboard and you’ll find yourself paying for the filter to be manually cleaned. Or if you’re unlucky, replaced.
Solution:
One simple solution is to get the engine hot. A good run down the highway in your Isuzu MU-X/D-Max at a decent speed could allow the DPF to burn off, thus fixing this problem. If not, front up at a workshop to have the filter either manually cleaned or replaced.
The biggest modification you can make to avoid the DPF becoming clogged is to modify your driving patterns. Take your vehicle for a half-hour strop up a freeway at least every month. That gives the exhaust system and the DPF the chance to get hot enough to do its thing. Doing this regularly should hopefully be enough to save you all those headaches.
Bypassing the DPF altogether would be dumb, as it renders the car illegal to use on the road. You can buy a kit that deletes the DPF, however it’s strictly for competitive, non-road vehicles. The irony here is that a competition car is driven flat out everywhere. It wouldn’t have DPF problems to begin with.
Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X problem #6: Engine bay cracks
Cracks in the metal of the engine bay are caused by either stress or metal fatigue. You’re most likely to find them on the suspension towers, near the VIN plate or low down on the inner guards.
Chassis have also been cracked, mainly at the front where big, heavy bull-bars and winches have been fitted. It seems that the way the Isuzu MU-X/D-MAX chassis is constructed is what allows for the front rails to flex, thus causing the problem. That then allows the bulbar to rock from side to side which magnifies the metal-stressing effects.
Solution:
The legal, foolproof way to fix the cracks in the engine-bay sheet-metal involves replacing those parts of the bodyshell structure. Prepare yourself, as it’s not cheap and certainly not easy. In most cases, it’s a big bodywork deal.
You can weld the cracks up, but by then, you’re technically altering the crash signature of the structure. That’s a no-no when it comes to the way the car performs in a shunt. It also affects safety as it could alter the way the air-bags work too. As for the front rails, the best advice for this Isuzu MU-X/D-MAX problem is to use the lightest bull-bar that will still do the job and think about where you mount a winch.
Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X problem #7: Ticking noise
The Isuzu 3.0-litre turbo-diesel doesn’t have hydraulic valve-lash adjustment. One of your routine maintenance jobs with the Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X includes checking and setting the valve clearances, which to us, is a problem, as most owners don’t know about this. Therefore, it often gets ignored. The good news with this one, is that the adjustment is via simple screw-and-locknuts. The other positive is that the engine uses a timing chain, not a timing belt that needs periodic replacement.
Poor valve adjustment makes itself known by a ticking noise from the top of the engine. This is typically the worst on cold start-ups if the valve clearances are loose. If the valves are tight, you won’t hear a thing, however the top end of your engine will be copping it. Long term, you could easily damage the valve stems with loose clearances or damage a cylinder with not enough (tight) clearance.
Solution:
Checking and adjusting (if necessary) needs to be treated as a once-every-40,000km routine job. You’ll need to fit new injector seals and a rocker-cover gasket at the same time, too. After all, only the greatest optimist in the world would reuse a gasket and trust that it won’t leak. Don’t over-tighten the rocker-cover or it’ll crack. Make sure any grots that fall into the Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X’s engine as you remove the rocker cover are picked out, or they may cause more problems in the diesel’s upper-cylinder area.
Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X problem #8: Wear on the front-wheel bearing
Sometimes the front-bearing life of the Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X is sadly, a problem at less than 50,000km. As with previous problems outlined in this yarn, this isn’t a problem unique to Isuzus but it is one that can’t be ignored.
Many people sadly only find out that they have wear when they’re having new tyres fitted and the tyre shop calls to say that the wheel alignment can’t be done. That being said, this is the better case scenario, as the worst is when you find yourself sitting on a track with your vehicle’s bearing in pieces on the ground.
If you make it part of your regular maintenance schedule, this doesn’t have to be a problem.
Solution:
Having the front wheel bearings inspected and greased or replaced every 30,000km on your Isuzu D-MAX/MU-X is a simple solution to this problem. Make sure the grease you use is an appropriate grade and type. You can re-pack the bearings yourself if you know how to spot the wear signs, or a workshop can do it cheaply. Don’t be tempted to use cheap bearings as naturally they can be more trouble than they’re worth. Their lifespan is also very likely to be limited, which is not what you’re after.
Words: Dave Morley and Jess Olson. Images: Arnold Archive.
Engine bay cracks
I believe that all ladder chassis flex. In this case it flexes more than the shell was designed to. The stresses are concentrated near the crumple zone fold producing fatigue and cracking. IUA’s fix is to replace the entire panel and sill rail.
Hey Isuzu Owners,The engine and transmission warnings are typical things to watch out for on any diesel motor regardless of make.
I have a Jeep Grandy 3.0l Fiat Diesel Turbo V6 which I treat with kid gloves.
First I fill it with up with BP ULTIMATE Diesel if possible.On a long trip a bottle of Penrite DPF Cleaner is added.Lasts 2500 kms and cleans the DPF.Also investigate Fuel system cleaners by Penrite.Good gear.Also if stuck in suburbia til next holiday, I shift into sport mode and out of overdrive for an hour on the freeway.Definitely works as per article.(Beer Run?).Throttle response noticeably sharper.Also sport mode is a bonus around town as it keeps the revs up and the soot out.DPFs aren’t cheap to replace.
I fitted a catch can to help minimise low load/revs,EGR sagas and have drained over 600ml of Oily Gunge that otherwise would be hardening up in my manifold and EGR.PRO-Vent make good kits and have upped the environmental side with a new filter and recirculating system.No Brainer this solution.Also makes a great farty sound that is amusing when it breaths.
We also tow a boat and gear and the transmission is in overdrive until hilly,slow sections appear or overtaking caravan people/Oldies.We also change gears manually according to the terrain,keeping it in the sweet spot on the rev meter.(5 Speed).Nice cool air for the trans and a bit more engine braking as well in the lower gear.Jeeps have a Trans Temp gauge also.We fitted a trans cooler on our old v8 Jeep and never burnt the fluid.No dramas with the 2013 model.Just service it.This works for us so I thought I’d pass it on.Cheers.
Be good if you mentioned which year model the article refers to. I have a 2013 model and tow with no problems yet. I don’t have trans cooler fitted but change back to 4th on hills. It is a auto. Only issue is that rear brake adjusters don’t work properly giving me a low pedal which stops anti skid from working properly. No other issues except for clear coat not lasting. They wouldn’t fix under warranty. Started deteriorating in 2/3rd year. Bob
I would like to know what year of MUX and Dmax this has been reviewed? on as the older vehicles have 5 speed and the new vehicles have 6 speed.