Ford Ranger common problems & solutions

Ford Ranger is a popular 4X4 in Australia and we know how to make them last. Check out these common Ford Ranger problems and how to fix them.

With all the excitement over the newly released Ford Next-Gen Ranger, we figured we’d take a look at Ranger common problems, and how you can fix them.

You’ve gotta hand it to Ford. Ford and Holden were toe-to-toe for literal decades. Each time one would release a new model, the other would retaliate in kind. It resulted in unbelievable vehicles. Phase III GTHOs, Monaros and A9X Toranas. Who could forget the stunning XC Cobras? But right at the end, it seemed Holden had finally won.

The VE Commodore was a wild success, while Ford phoned it in with the FGX Falcon. Of course, ten years later it’s obvious Ford made the right call. Holden is dead and buried and Ford is once again toe-to-toe for the pole position as Australia’s most successful car manufacturer. Their strategy to pivot to 4X4s has been wildly successful. It’s also a giant leap forward from the PJ/PK Rangers to the PX1/2/3 platform.

So, given how popular the new Ford Next-Gen Ranger is, we’ve taken a look at some problems commonly found in the Ranger.

The engine

There were a few different engine options available in the Ranger depending on when and what you bought. A 2.2-litre four-cylinder single turbo, a 2.0-litre four-cylinder twin turbo and a 3.2-litre five-cylinder single turbo. For now, we’re focusing on the 3.2 just because of the sheer number of them sold but we’ll circle back to the 2.0 in future articles.

Branded as either a Duratorq or Powerstroke depending on the market, the 3.2 is part of the Puma family of engines. While the Puma family has been in production since 2000, the 3.2 wasn’t seen until 2006. You can find them in the Mazda BT50s between 2011-2020, Ford Rangers between 2011-2022, Ford Everests between 2015-2022, and even a few odd-ball offerings like the Troller T4 and the Vivarail diesel electric train. Yes, an actual train.

Let’s look at some common problems with them in Ford Ranger guise.

The problem

If you’ve ever wondered how modern vehicles manage to make so much more power while weighing so much more than their predecessors and still use less fuel, there’s a very simple reason why. Every single efficiency that can be exploited is. 20 minor things here and there that save 0.1L/100km is the difference between 14L/100km and 12L/100km and that’s important when people are new car shopping.

One of the ways Ford saved a little fuel with the 3.2 Rangers is by using a variable-pressure oil pump. The crux of it is it’ll spool up oil pressure quicker, then back off once the right pressure is reached and require less energy to drive. The downside is this creates complications. A common Ford Ranger problem with this is the 10-minute oil change thing but it also makes them more prone to failure, and catastrophic engine failure as a result.

The solution

Don’t even muck around here. If you’re planning on keeping your Ranger for any length of time rip the factory engine oil pump out and replace it with an old-fashioned gear-driven oil pump. Engine Australia offer one for less than 400 dollarydoos and it’ll solve both problems in one hit. The biggest hassle is lifting the engine enough to get the sump off but it’s a lot less hassle than an engine rebuilt.

The problem

Ever feel a little gutless sometimes? Like you’re just not your usual self? And plumes of black smoke are coming out your back end while you go into limp mode? Alright maybe not, but if you find yourself with this Ford Ranger common problem it’s exactly what your ride will experience.

Over time, the rubber upper and lower intercooler hoses can fatigue and even split. As they’re downwind of the turbo and airflow sensor it’ll do two things. The first is none of that spicy boosted air will make it to your engine, so no power. The second, is your air fuel ratios will be all out of whack, hence the unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust. Not ideal.

The solution

Like most of these Ford Ranger problems, the fix is easy and well supported by the aftermarket. Buy and install a hard pipe kit. They’re solid alloy so won’t fail no matter how many corrugations you throw at it. If you’re excited, it’s a good time to throw an intercooler in too. We haven’t used all brands but can vouch for the Harrop offering.

The problem

Ever wanted to know why we fit snorkels to our 4X4s but you’re too afraid to ask? The reason is simple. Water is non-compressible and our engines work by compressing things. If the part that is supposed to compress is full of something that can’t compress, something is going bang. Typically, a piston connecting rod will turn into a pretzel. In case you didn’t guess, that means game over for your engine.

What’s this problem got to do with the Ford Ranger? Well, they run a thing called an Exhaust Gas Recirculator. Essentially it pumps a little bit of your spent exhaust gases into your intake. It lowers the temperature of the combustion and produces less smog. Notice how cities aren’t covered in smog these days? Neat hey. The bad part in this process is a thing called an EGR cooler. It’s linked to your engine’s cooling system and designed to help further reduce these temperatures. When (not if) this part fails, water from your cooling system goes into your engine. It doesn’t compress but your connecting rods sure do. Again, not ideal.

The solution

If you’re a fine upstanding citizen you’ve got a few options here. The first is to fit a low coolant alarm from a company like Redarc. Actually, they’re invaluable so grab one now from here. If the cooler fails with a dribble rather than a tidal wave you may get lucky and the coolant will turn to steam and give you a warning when your coolant gets low. The second option is to get your system pressure tested, leak tested, or any other testing you can find, pray to your gods, and replace it with a brand new one just in case.

We can’t comment on this directly but we have heard reports of some unscrupulous members of society removing the EGR completely. It makes sense. One less failure point to destroy your engine and less junk going through your engine. The side effect? More smog in the air and acid rain. However, in the interest of not being sued into the gutter, we strongly condemn this action.

The problem

If you’re here from one of the HiLux forums just for a laugh, don’t giggle too soon as this Ford Ranger problem affects you too. Modern common-rail fuel injection systems require insane pressures to get the efficiencies (read power and economy) that they do. Now imagine a piece of sandpaper gently falling past your arm. Now imagine it grazing your arm but it’s strapped to the front of a Boeing 747 at full tilt. That’s what happens to your fuel injectors when literally anything but diesel goes through them. Best case, you’ll be down on power and blowing smoke. Worst case, the injector will literally dribble fuel onto your piston causing a hot spot, and eventually a hole in said piston and a rebuild in your future.

The solution

I feel like I’m repeating myself here but again, this is a complex problem with an easy solution. This doesn’t happen if the injector doesn’t get gunk through it. Step one, don’t put gunk in your fuel tank. That means no dusty jerry cans. No dirty funnels. Also, if you’re driving past an outback truck stop that looks like its last lot of fuel was delivered by a Model T then maybe drive to the next one if you’ve got the range. The second solution is an inline fuel filter and water separator. If Ford asked, we didn’t tell you to do this as they can affect your warranty. However, if it’s between your main filter and your fuel tank they won’t cause you any fuel pressure issues and could save your engine one day.

The problem

Have you ever read the old stories of people getting lobotomies because their family didn’t like they were a little wild? Severing the connections between how we process the world and how we perceive the world does a serious number on us. It’s no surprise then that in modern electronically controlled vehicles that when the data your engine’s brain is receiving doesn’t match up to reality, things start going a little haywire. The result of this common Ford Ranger problem can be unannounced limp modes, surging, inability to rev, and occasionally even inability to start.

The solution

Thankfully, with modern diagnostic tools, we’re able to hone in pretty quickly and tell exactly what sensor is giving a goofy reading. They’re frequently only held in with a bolt or two. There are a couple of common sensors that tend to be a problem for Ford Ranger owners and all of them are simple and affordable to fix. Up front, early models were very susceptible to crank angle sensors failing and they’ll do all of the above. This sensor lets the computer know where the engine is in its cycle. Not having an accurate reading here is a disaster. The other common sensor to cause grief is the exhaust gas temperature sensor hidden in under the exhaust manifold.

The transmission

We’re going to focus on the 6-speed automatic transmission here for a couple of reasons. There’s bugger all that ever causes problems with the Ford Ranger manual. A few goofy bearings that should be replaced and a clutch that can cause grief. As the overwhelming majority of Rangers sold are automatics, we’re focusing on drilling down deep into the Ford 6R80 transmission.

The problem

Up to the plate first is slow, sluggish shifting. You know when you take off and it really feels like your transmission just isn’t interested in playing ball? A big hard acceleration off the line, engine revving its guts out, revs finally drop, then continue staying dropped for an uncomfortably long time before you kick up a gear and start the whole process again. It’s typically hard to diagnose this Ford Ranger problem because it sneaks up on you over literal years.

The solution

The reason is quite simple. The service intervals for this transmission are ridiculous. Most manufacturers running these transmissions call them a ‘fill for life’ (around 250,000km) and don’t even have an easily accessible dipstick as a result. Meanwhile, the company that did the original design say they should be serviced every 80,000km maximum. None of this factors in the additional wear and tear of towing, heavy loads, or rough off-road use. If you have an auto, service it every 50,000km. It’ll cost a few hundred and save you thousands.

The problem

We’ve thrown this one in up top too because the problem is catastrophic and the solution is simple. The quintessential Ford Ranger common problems you’ve come to expect. Your transmission runs an external cooler. Transmission fluid is pumped out into a little box mounted next to it, coolant is pumped down from the radiator and through two separate sealed compartments, heat is transferred away to keep your transmission operating efficiently. Except that little box fails. It then fills your radiator with transmission fluid but more importantly, fills your transmission with coolant instead of lubricating fluid. This kills the transmission.

The solution

You know that scene in Titanic where Jack sinks below the water and Rose, sad but accepting, watches him go? We need to do that to our transmission coolers because we’re better off without the factory offering in our lives. Many aftermarket companies offer external stand-alone dual-row coolers that’ll not only keep your transmission cooler but will keep the fluid separate from your coolant so there is zero chance of the two meeting. Again, haven’t used them all but have used and can recommend the Wholesale one here.

The problem

This Ford Ranger problem is a little harder to describe as the symptoms can be so varied but you know it when you’ve got it. It’s typically hard shifting, big clunks, gears sticking and ultimately limp mode. In short, your transmission doesn’t have a clue what’s going on and doesn’t know how to act as a result. Are you doing 80km/h and it should be in 5th? Are you slowing down to a stop and it should shift from 2nd to 1st? It’s a mystery to it so it’s just trying its best. The problem is a component inside called a Lead Frame. Essentially it’s a moulded piece of plastic that contains a whole bunch of sensors and connections. When it plays up your transmission’s brain is getting short-circuited.

The solution

There sort of is and isn’t a nice easy solution here. There’s nothing inherently wrong with the design of the lead frame which means there’s no easy issue to solve. They’re just a fragile component in a harsh and hot environment. However, there are things we can do to make their lives easier to avoid failure. We need to keep them cool!

The external cooler you just fitted above will help massively as will fitting a larger sump to increase your oil-carrying capacity. Finally, get a gauge so you can monitor your transmission’s temperatures and know when to back off. If you’re hauling up a long steep hill in the middle of summer with a 20-tonne caravan on the back full of every camping accessory under the sun, it’s probably a smart idea to back off occasionally and give the internals of your transmission a fighting chance.

The problem

While a buggered lead frame may be a little costly to fix, those same Ford Ranger symptoms can often be caused by a far cheaper and simpler problem. Your Ranger doesn’t just hope for the best and assume what it’s doing is working, it knows every bit of information in every step of the process and can quickly identify (and freak out) when something is wrong. A common problem Ford Ranger owners experience is missed shifts, hard shifting, and the dreaded Christmas tree full of lights on the dash. It’s all thanks to a $60 sensor you can change in about 30 seconds.

The solution

The problem might be common but the solution is simple. Grab a scan tool, see the code saying output speed sensor fault, spend $60 at Repco to buy a new one, replace the sensor, and go on living your life. As we said, most of these issues are easy fixes or simple to prevent.

The problem

We said most, not all. These Ford Ranger problems are more serious but are FAR rarer so don’t lose too much sleep over them. There are some occasions that transmission’s near cark it instantly. Torque converter failures, flywheel failures and transmission oil pump failures are typically the culprits. There’s no point staying up at night worrying about them but they are worth being aware of.

The solution

Again, as these aren’t super common problems, there are no easy solutions to them. Sure, you can get your transmission rebuilt with a new oil pump and an upgraded torque converter but that’s being ridiculous. Just treat your transmission with a little kindness, keep it full of fresh, clean fluid, and keep it cool with external coolers.

The body

The problem

We don’t mean to alarm you but your Ranger might burn to the ground one day. Alright in all fairness, this isn’t a specific Ford Ranger problem, it’s basically any 4X4 with a hot exhaust that travels through long grass. The difference is that Ford put their hand up and pointed out both the problem and the solution themselves. The issue in Rangers is the proximity of the diesel particulate filter (DPF) and the nearest crossmember. There’s just enough room there that when travelling through long grass it can accumulate, dry out, and ultimately combust when the superheated exhaust gases going through the DPF turn the exhaust into a giant metal furnace.

The solution

Fit a bash plate. It’s as simple as that. Ford issued a recall for the issue and all that was required to avoid the issue was a tiny steel bash plate just big enough to deflect grass away and stop it from accumulating above the cross member. If your Ranger has a DPF it should have had the recall done already. The plate fitted from the factory, or more likely a set of decent aftermarket bash plates make this whole thing a moot point.

The problem

This Ranger problem is on Ford but it’s a relatively simple fix too and will take about 2-minutes to check on your rig. There’s around 7 million wires in a modern 4X4. Could be 8 million. The point is, there’s heaps and that’s a hell of a packaging issue. The 3.2 Ranger’s engine harness sits directly on the engine at multiple points, but up front, it sits on the timing cover. Directly on a pressed sheet metal lip. If you’re unlucky, vibrations can have it wear through over time causing the wires to short resulting in a Ford Ranger that’s dead in the water.

The solution

All you need to achieve here is to stop the wiring from rubbing through. Simple. There’s a variety of rectifications for this issue and all depend on where you land in the dodgy/neat scale of things. After using an inspection mirror to ensure you’ve got there before damage has been done, all you need to do is make the metal not touch the wires. Some people have used a large P clamp to space the wiring up off the cover. Others have cut a length of heater hose, slipped it over and cable tied it in place. As long as your fix isn’t going to come loose and fall into the belt you’re home free.

Suspension and chassis

The problem

This is another Ford Ranger problem that’s not really a problem but well worth knowing as a potential owner. By the very nature of independent front suspension, there will always be a change in angles between the front wheels and the front diff. A couple of constant velocity (CV) joints on the front and left driveshafts help account for this. The downside is that the bigger the angle they run on, the weaker and more prone to failure they are. By lifting a Ranger any more than 50mm that angle starts becoming too great and causes constant CV failure, leaving you stranded with no drive to the wheels.

The solution

The solution is rather simple, depending on how excited you want to get. The easiest step is not putting a big lift in any 4X4 with independent suspension. By sticking to a typical 50mm lift you won’t have any issues. The second option, if you have to have a big lift, is fitting a diff drop. Lowering the diff centre has the same effect as not lifting the suspension resulting in less CV angle. The final solution and the one people don’t want to hear, is when you break a CV in a Ranger, it has to be replaced with a genuine offering. We’ve tested most of the aftermarket CV joints on the market and not a single one has held up as well as a genuine one. Although at 4x the price, the factory ones should be better…

The problem

You’ve just installed your shiny new lift kit. There’s miles of room for your bling new wheels and tyres and you’re keen as beans to hit the tracks and find out if those trick new remote reservoir shock absorbers really do ride as well as the slick-haired salesman said. The problem is, as soon as you back out onto the street you notice a horrible vibration coming through the floorplan right into your seat. The faster you go, the worse it gets. The Ford Ranger problem is more often than not due to the centre bearing in the rear driveshaft. The Rangers have the longest wheelbase in their class and as a result, have a two-piece driveshaft. In the middle is a component known as a centre bearing. Put them on too big an angle though and they’ll vibrate all to hell.

The solution

We’re not sure if it was intentional or not but this might be the most common problem with the easiest fix. Picture the centre bearing like a doughnut. The driveshaft goes through the middle and has a tab on either side to mount it. Now those tabs are actually off-centre by around 20mm. Un-bolt the two mounting bolts. Spin the centre 180 degrees, and the centre bearing will drop by around 40mm putting the driveshaft on a significantly less angle. There are kits you can buy with spacer plates and new bolts but we’re not entirely sure why they exist when the fix is free.

The problem

PX3 Rangers are distinguishable from PX2 Rangers by their inclusion of daytime running lights, a relocated radar cruise control panel, and a revamped front grille without the dip down into the front bar. They’re also not sporting any bump stops in the front suspension. As part of moving things in line with international models, the PX3 Ranger’s got a tweaked front suspension that saw the previous stand-alone rubber bump stop and beefy chassis brace removed In their place, internal bump stops in the struts were added. The problem is, on hard bottom outs the full force of the Ford Ranger’s weight no longer goes directly through the chassis, it goes through the strut potentially bending it in the process.

The solution

The bad news is unless you’re handy with a welder there’s no ‘proper’ fix for this problem. The good news is you probably won’t need one. When installing a lift kit ensure that the strut is specifically designed to suit a PX3 and not just an adapted version from earlier PX1s and PX2s. The shock-mounted bump stop isn’t ideal but it’s not worth losing sleep over unless you’re planning on desert racing in a stock vehicle.

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