When first discussing the Defender, the legend who came up with the idea kicked in the door to Land Rover’s engineering department boardroom and laid out a simple premise:
“Listen up nerds! We’re going to build an over-engineered, bare bones wagon/ute with torquey little turbo-diesel engines, manual transmissions, one of the best transfer-cases known to humankind, coil spring suspension and solid axles, one of which will be good.
We’re going to slap it with bags of off-road capability; raw, carved-from-oak sex appeal; the ability to be rallied across a variety of roles, and oh yeah, make it full-time 4WD. We’ll base the looks off the old Series Landies, as in, it’ll look the same as we’ve always done it, but cooler – like Tom Hank’s kid, you know, the one you’d have beers with.
What’s that Simmons? Interior comfort? LOL, you’re fired Simmons, you pansy. In fact, just for that, we’re going to make the steering wheel slightly off-centre to the driver’s body line, so they’ll be forced to drive with an arm out the window. Are you happy Simmons? Good, now get out. Is everybody else cool? Sweet, let’s break for lunch, I’m tonguing for an Earl Grey.”

We digress…
At least, that’s how we imagine it went. And if it didn’t, it should have. Regardless, just like that (or close enough) back in 1990, an icon was born and the 4WD landscape was changed forever. The Defender was the Series Land Rover reimagined for a new age; it was the Troopy that Toyota really should have built. It was a tractor that could get the job done on the land without a single bell or whistle. And then be driven back home on the road at a respectable speed.
It was, put simply, the quintessential 4X4, and it’s unlikely we’ll ever see the like again, especially since they stopped making them back in 2016 (the ‘real’ ones anyway – jury is still out on the new unibody ones).
Anyway, let’s take a look at the 1990-2016 versions of what has to be one of the most recognisable 4X4s on the planet, and give you the skinny on how to spot a good’un on the second-hand market.

Land Rover Defender Variants
Broadly speaking, there’s three main variants of the Defender – the 90, the 110 and the 130 – which loosely refer to the model’s wheelbase. So, 90s are two-door shorties, the 110s are four-door wagons and the 130s are the long-boi single or dual-cab utes. There were a range of body changes within those designations, for example: there’s a fair few two-door 110 hardtops or 110 dual-cabs getting around, but most will fall into the above categories.

Differences over the years
To be honest, there ain’t that many. Right up until 2016 you could still use the windscreen as a billiard table and the doors remained the same shape as they had been since the median house price in Sydney was $7000 (1958 if you’re feeling curious, and now probably depressed), which gives you a neat perspective on just how well designed the `Fenders were from the get-go.
The beefy Salisbury rear diff (which was essentially a Dana 60) was swapped out for a smaller and less reliable P38 Range Rover diff in 2002. Which sucked. Because the Salisbury behemoth out back was virtually indestructible. The same year also saw a dash revamp and the introduction of power windows.
The rear doors changed from an alloy skin over a steel frame to an all-steel unit with the introduction of the TD5 engine in 1998. Which was largely seen as a good thing. The TD5s all had the strongest ‘L-Suffix’ R380 5-speed and updated LT230Q transfer case. Which were the best of the drivelines for the period. ABS, traction control, revised driveshafts and alloy wheels also showed up around the same time. Although some early TD5s came out without these things. So be sure to check for them, if for no other reason than to use them for bargaining on price.

2007 saw the biggest update in the Defender line with the intro of the common-rail Puma engines and an updated dash. Which ditched the manual dash air-vents, causing untold consternation among Roverphiles everywhere. That saw all manner of interior modernity borrowed from the Discovery 3 – such as bulky plastic moulding, actually functional heating and AC along with a few other new-age doodads, although, in keeping with the Defender’s “we die like men” philosophy, there were still no airbags.
These later models are easy to spot thanks to the ‘Puma-bulge’, which isn’t a reference to David Bowie in Labyrinth. But the rather prominent hump on the bonnet that was grafted in to fit the taller Ford engine – incidentally, this seems to be a love it or hate it addition among those who bleed green.
The main changes in the Defender’s 26-year run though were the powerplants.
Different engines
When it comes to engine choice, you have one option. A small-capacity turbo diesel or you can find your own way out thanks. The initial releases had the 4-cylinder 2.5L direct injection, turbocharged, 200tdi engine. Which, while not exactly a powerhouse, was a solid little performer that was more than capable of propelling the vehicle’s mass along at highway speeds.
This was replaced by the almost identical 300tdi. Which put out slightly higher power and torque numbers from the same capacity and configuration as its predecessor. Both engines are favourites among purists due to their mechanical injection (no computers) and fix-it-with-a-shifter simplicity.
Then, in 1999, the Tdi was replaced with the venerable 5-cylinder TD5. While this engine was first seen as a bit too complicated (gasp! Computer-controlled mechanical injection!) for the simplistic `Fender, it has stood the test of time and racked up an enviable reputation for reliability. They’re also capable of better-than-decent power figures if you’re into fiddling with injectors and turbos and tunes. Power numbers north of 200hp is achievable with a tune and bolt-on mods. There is always a point where power goes up and reliability goes down. So do your research before turning your engine into a melted candle.
Regardless, a TD5 is probably the pick of the engines for many people. Maintaining that delicate balance between a respectable amount of go under the right boot. Acceptable fuel economy. And long-term reliability.
Puma pride
In 2007, Ford was now the owner of Land Rover. And decided to throw their common rail Tdci Duratorq engine in between the Defender’s chassis rails. Commonly referred to as Puma engines. This move would bring the emissions up to par with modern levels. As well as introduce common-rail injection, which further improved power delivery.
While the 2.4 turbocharged four-banger (same as the one found in Ford’s Transit vans) was initially seen as a step in the right direction for the Defender marque – a newer-tech, punchy engine in essentially an unchanged, rugged body. However, the advantages of being able to drive comfortably on the highway with the AC cranked and your butt nestled in (gasp!) optional leather seats was offset by a few niggling reliability issues, which unfortunately were not entirely sorted with the later 2.2L engine (as seen in the Ford Rangers, as well as the Transit). Overall however, the Puma-equipped rigs are the newer and somewhat flashier Defenders. And are the main reason you’ll see Defenders parked in places like Bondi and Toorak, among all the Audis, Beemers and Porsches.
Want the lads at the country club to see you as the rugged survivalist you know you could be? Buy a Puma Defender, Charles, and be sure to let the gents at the 18th tee see how unafraid of nature you are.
As a quick side note: the Puma engines are, interestingly, not significantly better on fuel economy than the earlier engines. Defenders (on stock tyres) generally return between 10-12L/100km right across the engine range. Just in case you were wondering.
Land Rover Defender Common Problems

200tdi & 300tdi
Keep in mind these vehicles will be at least 25 years old now. So problems will vary depending on how well it’s been maintained. How many kays it’s got on the odometer and so on. If a tdi gets hot it’s common for them to cook heads. So ask the seller when it last had the head gasket done and if it (preferably) had new head bolts, a new head and the valves all done.
Speaking of valves, the rockers need adjusting every 20K or so km, so see when that was last done. Pro tip: ask about the condition of the valve caps (the little widget that sits between the rocker arm and valve stem, aftermarket caps can wear very quickly) – if the seller looks at all unsure, walk away.
Rear mains (check the bottom of the bellhousing for oil coming from the drain plug), T-seals (an annoying seal between the rearmost bearing cap and crank seal), oil filter housings, vacuum pump seals, rocker housings, sump gaskets and probably a couple more I’ve forgotten all can (and probably do) leak oil. Bring a good inspection light with you and be sure to check the injectors for weeping seals as well as the fuel pump for any moisture too. Water pump gaskets are known coolant-leakers so shine your torch down the front of the engine while you’re there. Timing belts should be done every 80,000km so make sure that’s on the list as well.
All of the above can be fixed with the engine remaining in the vehicle so there’s little reason for the work not to have been carried out. One good check is to start the vehicle up and see how long it takes to fire up. It should be almost instant. Tdis are easy starters so any labouring or reluctance to kick into life points to deeper issues. Oh, and ALL tdi-equipped Defenders will blow a puff of black smoke on start-up. Relax, it’s normal.

TD5
Much like the tdi engines, any overheating is generally no bueno for the TD5s. The head gaskets can go and the heads themselves can actually “slide” on the block. So ask if the plastic head dowels (on the pre-02 models) have been updated to the steel dowels of later years. Again, the head gaskets are basically consumable. So check when the head was last done and inspect closely for signs of leakage.
The exhaust manifolds are also known to warp (requiring machining to fix properly) and the EGR valves are prone to carbon build-up (like every vehicle with one of those bastards fitted). So ensure the valve itself is clean, or, if you enjoy flouting the law and being ungovernable, is illegally stopping some workshop’s bin from floating away.
Oil leaks are not as prevalent on the TD5 as the tdi but pay attention to the harness near the ECU – oil has a habit of flowing ‘up’ into the ECU and causing complete havoc. Also check the oil pump chain sprocket bolt is not loose – another known engine killer.

Puma 2.4L & 2.2L
These are generally pretty good, if for no other reason than being a full generation or two younger than the other two engine options, but they’re not what you would call bulletproof. The main culprits are worn rubber hoses and clamps that can pop off (intercooler hoses). Or wear through (cooling system hoses). Left-side turbo pipes in particular are known for chafing through or rupturing. So check them over closely.
Injectors have been known to fail prematurely. As well as the suction control valves. So inspect any potential purchase closely for strong fuel smells, rough idle or surging. It’s not exactly a common issue, but it’s worth keeping an eye out for.
Other than that, the Pumas seem to be holding up relatively well. Time will tell if they have the longevity that the TD5 or even tdi engines are known for. But at over 15 years old now they’re pretty well a proven thing.
Engines at a glance:
200tdi
Configuration: 2.5L 4-cylinder, mechanical direct-injection
Power: 80kW
Torque: 255NM
300tdi
Configuration: 2.5L 4-cylinder, mechanical direct-injection
Power: 85kW
Torque: 264NM
TD5
Configuration: 2.5L 5-cylinder, computer-controlled direct-injection
Power: 91kW
Torque: 300NM
Puma 2.4Tdci
Configuration: 2.4L 4-cylinder, common-rail direct-injection,
Power: 90kW
Torque: 360NM
Puma 2.2Tdci
Configuration: 2.2L 4-cylinder, common-rail direct-injection
Power: 90kW
Torque: 360NM

Should I Buy One?
Most people will instinctively fall into two broad categories here: Category one are the “Land Rover?! I’d rather have Michael J Fox perform surgery on me with a rusty spork! *guttural shrieking*” folks, or category two, the “hell yeah, they look heaps rugged, I’d totes own one” brigade – who then generally dislike driving them and neglect them to the point of disrepair until they eventually sell them (for a profit dammit) rather than fork out the cash to keep them in good nick.
Then there’s the rarer third category – the enthusiast. These people can appreciate exactly what a Defender is and what it represents (so can you after reading this article). And are willing to put the time, effort and money into their investment. For such individuals, a Defender is a solid purchase as they are almost guaranteed to at least make their money back over the period of their ownership. If not net a tidy profit if they ever do choose to sell (and it’s a big if – many people see them as lifetime vehicles). Not to mention provide you with years of memories and off-road adventures.
So yes, absolutely buy one. They’re pretty fantastic at anything off-road or work-oriented and will serve you faithfully for decades with some TLC. Now, that may not sound like fun to you, or maybe that level of maintenance simply isn’t viable with your lifestyle, in which case I’d humbly suggest you pass on buying a Defender and save yourself a potentially massive headache.
But if you’re up for the challenge, they’re definitely worth it. A small lift and larger tyres, some barwork and a couple of gorillas thrown at a bit more power and you’ll have a steed that’s equally ready for a Simmo crossing as the trip to pick up the kids from school – where you’ll undoubtedly be the parent with the coolest car.

Price Guide
Keep in mind there are a lot of variations in price between overall vehicle condition, engines, 90s, 110s 130s, etc. etc. not to mention level of mods, so take these prices as a rough guide.
- 1995 300tdi 110 4-door ~270,000km $10K – $30K
- 1997 TD5 130 dual-cab ~90,000km $20K – $35K
- 2012 2.2L Puma 90 2-door ~130,000km $30K – $45K
Insurance quote:
We rang Club 4X4 and got a quote on a 2001 110 Defender Xtreme TD5 (pictured) for comprehensive insurance for a 35yo male with a clean record living in Western Sydney.
1 year: $1220.23
You missed the best engine the Isuzu
We had a County wagon with this engine it is a gem and superior to any after it.
The real adventurers wagon.
If I win Lotto I’d get a long wheel base and spend whatever it take to get to A1 condition with the body and mechanicals kitted out for my life on the road, to tow a small caravan ewven maybe getting it extended like the one I saw a while ago in Buladellah (sooo envious)